When performing any type of drainage work on your property, a permit is required. If you have hired a contractor(s) to perform the work, they must obtain a Contractor's Business License with the village before issuance of the permit. If you have any questions, please contact the Permitting Division of the Community Development Department at 847-923-4420.

Current Fees

• Residential: $50
• Commercial: $250

Submittal Requirements

• Residential Building Permit 
• Plat of Survey (PDF) with locations of all proposed underground piping shown

Required Inspections

• Fine Grading
• Drain Tile (before pipe is backfilled)
• Final Engineering (after work is completed and backfilled)

Inspections can be scheduled up to 4pm the business day prior to the requested inspection date by contacting the Permitting Division of the Community Development Department at 847-923-4420.

Code Requirements

Perforated Drain Tile

Trench:

• The trench must be a minimum of eighteen (18”) deep and sixteen (16”) wide (for a 4” pipe) and have a minimum slope of 1%.
• If the trench crosses underneath any pavement (asphalt or concrete) or village right-of-way, the pipe must be a rigid non-perforated material.
• The trench should be either lined with geotechnical fabric or the pipe should be enclosed in a protective sock.
• When starting to install the pipe, make sure the pipe sits on a 2” bed of CA-7 washed gravel. After inspection, backfill all but the top 4” of the trench with the same CA-7 washed gravel. Add geotechnical fabric to the top of the stone.

Termination:

• The pipe should normally end with a bubble-up or pop-up feature which would be no closer than 10’ from the front or rear property line. In cases of regular heavy water flow, the pipe may be connected to a village storm structure if one is available.

Restoration:

• Top soil should be added to the last 4” of the trench. After proper compaction, seed or sod should complete the job. Areas of restoration in the parkway should always be topsoil and sodded per village code.

Non-Perforated Pipe with Yard Drain

Trench:

• The trench must be at least 16” deep (4” pipe) and wide enough to accommodate the pipe. It must also have a minimum slope of 1%.
• If a typical 12" yard drain (from local home improvement store) is used, the standard cut-out on the side will not work in this application. The side cut-out should be sealed. A hole must then be cut out on the bottom of the drain to accommodate a 90 degree elbow. This elbow should protrude about 1’ inside of the bottom of drain to obtain a small sump. This procedure will allow you to achieve 1’ of cover over the pipe.

Termination:

• Connect non-perforated pipe to elbow and continue laying pipe in trench until termination. Pipe should normally end with a bubble-up or pop-up feature which would be no closer than 10’ from the front or rear property line. In cases of regular heavy water flow, the pipe may be connected to a village storm structure if one is available.

Restoration:

• Backfill trench using material from initial trenching above. Top soil should be added to the last 4” of the trench. After proper compaction, seed or sod should complete the job. Areas of restoration in the parkway should always be topsoil and sodded per village code.

Downspout Connection to Underdrain

Trench:

• The trench must be at least 16” deep (4” pipe) and wide enough to accommodate the pipe. It must also have a minimum slope of 1%. The trench should begin near the bottom of the downspout and then proceed to the termination point.
• Begin installing the non-perforated pipe directly beneath the downspout. This initial vertical pipe (4” typical) should have a 6” x 4” reducer on top of the pipe. This should stick out of the ground 4"-6". There must also be an air gap of 2”- 4” between the top of the reducer and the bottom of the downspout. (If the underdrain freezes or gets clogged, the downspout will simply spill out of the pipe onto the ground. If there was no air gap present, the water could backup to the gutters and could potentially damage shingles and roofing materials.

Termination:

• Pipe should normally end with a bubble-up or pop-up feature which would be no closer than 10’ from the front or rear property line. In cases of regular heavy water flow, the pipe may be connected to a village storm structure if one is available. For commercial properties with a roof area greater than 10,000 square feet, the downspouts must be connected directly into a storm sewer system.

Restoration:

• Backfill trench using material from initial trenching above. Top soil should be added to the last 4” of the trench. After proper compaction, seed or sod should complete the job. Areas of restoration in the parkway should always be topsoil and sodded per village code.

Sump Pump Connection to Underdrain

Trench:

• The trench must be at least 16” deep (4” pipe) and wide enough to accommodate the pipe. It must also have a minimum slope of 1%. The trench should begin near the bottom of the sump pump discharge pipe then proceed to the termination point. No reducer is needed due to the fact that the typical sump pump discharge pipe from a house is a 1-1/2” diameter pipe and the underdrain below is typically 4” diameter.

Termination:

• If using bubble-up or pop-up feature, the feature should terminate 3’ to 10’ from foundation of home.
• If the sump pump is very active, a connection to the village storm sewer system is recommended.

Restoration:

• Backfill trench using material from initial trenching above. Top soil should be added to the last 4” of the trench. After proper compaction, seed or sod should complete the job. Areas of restoration in the parkway should always be topsoil and sodded per village code.